Perhaps no garment is as romanticized as the trench coat; from South Africa to France to Casablanca to London, it has remained functional and almost unchanged for over 100 year The origins of this garment can be traced to the Boer War. The coats were made of gabardine, an innovative and durable wool fabric designed to repel water and keep the wearer warm but ventilated. Only officers were allowed to wear the coats; they were not a required part of the uniform and could only be purchased privately.
After the Great War, dozens of Hollywood’s leading men brought the trench coat to the silver screen. Humphrey Bogart’s most memorable scenes in both Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon feature him wearing what would soon become an iconic garment. Characters such as Dick Tracy captured the public’s attention with adventure and mystery wrapped up in a trench coat.
Trench Coat Style
The style of the trench coat has changed very little in its over 100 year history. That being said, there are a lot of different options available to personalise your bespoke tailored trench coat:
Double Breasted Front Style – The classic trench coat is double breasted with six to ten buttons depending on length. This has been popularised over the last couple of seasons with vivid colours. A single breasted coat in a khaki color is a popular design which would stand the test of time.
Single Back Vent – Trench coats have a single vent – the original purpose was to give a soldier room to run as he moved across the battlefield while ensuring protection from strong winds as he waited for the “word.”
Raglan Sleeves – Unlike normal jacket sleeves, the Raglan sleeve is more relaxed and makes the jacket more comfortable when worn with multiple layers of clothing.
Epaulets (Shoulder Tabs) – A military holdover, epaulets allowed officers to attach rank insignia without damaging the coat.
Storm (Gun) Flap – Assumed by many to be padding for a rifle butt, the “gun” flap is actually a protective flap to ensure water does not slip into the jacket as it runs down the shoulders. It effectively serves as a cap, keeping the wearer dry, assuming he has on headwear. We see it on the right side for men and on the left side for women as the jacket buttons up in opposite ways for the different genders. The reference to this flap being a gun flap is probably due to it being requested during WWI when officers complained about water seeping into the coats after firing their rifles. The raising of the right arm opened up and exposed the early trench coat’s breast fold to the elements – not something you want in a downpour.
Detachable D-Ring Belt – The trench coat’s belt enables the wearer to adjust the jacket’s torso and gives him the ability to carry a firearm, sword, or utility pouch.
Cuff Straps – I’ve heard some people say these were for holding grenades – this is assuredly a myth as no sane person who has ever been around explosives would use them in such a way. The trench coat’s cuff straps served simply to tighten the fit and keep the rain out – occasionally someone strapped a piece of gear onto them (like a map – never a hand grenade!).
Detachable D-Ring Belt – The trench coat’s belt enables the wearer to adjust the jacket’s torso and gives him the ability to carry a firearm, sword, or utility pouch.
Cuff Straps – I’ve heard some people say these were for holding grenades – this is assuredly a myth as no sane person who has ever been around explosives would use them in such a way. The trench coat’s cuff straps served simply to tighten the fit and keep the rain out – occasionally someone strapped a piece of gear onto them (like a map – never a hand grenade!).
